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The earliest recorded
society on Lombok was relatively small kingdom of the
Sasaks. The Sasak peoples were agriculturalists and
animists who practised ancestor and spirit worship.
The original Sasaks are believed to have come overland
from north-west India or Myanmar(Burma) in waves of
migration that predated most Indonesian ethnic group.
Few relic remain from the old animist kingdoms, and
the majority of Sasaks today are Muslim, although
animism has left its mark on the culture. |
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Not much is known about Lombok before the 17th
century, at which time it was split into numerous,
frequently squabbling states each presided over by a
Sasak "prince" - a disunity exploited by the
neighboring Balinese.
In the early 17th century, the Balinese from the
eastern state of Karangasem established colonies and
took control of west Lombok. At the same time, the
roving Makassarese crossed the strait from their
colonies in west Sumbawa and established settlements
in east Lombok. This conflict of interests ended with
the war of 1677-8, in which the Makassarese were
booted off the island and east Lombok temporarily
reverted to the rule of the Sasak princes. Balinese
control was soon reasserted and by 1740 or 1750 the
whole island was in their hands.
While the Balinese were now the masters of Lombok, the
basis of their control in west and east Lombok was
quite different. In west Lombok, relations between the
Balinese and the Sasaks were relatively harmonious.
The Sasak peasants, who adhered to the mystical Wektu
Telu interpretation of Islam, easily assimilated
Balinese Hinduism, participated in Balinese religious
festivities and worshipped at the same shrines.
Intermarriage between Balinese and Sasaks was common.
The western Sasaks were organized into similar
irrigation associations (subak) that the Balinese used
for wet-rice agriculture. The traditional Sasak
village government, presided over by a chief, was done
away with and the peasants were ruled directly by the
rajah or a land owning Balinese aristocrat.
Things were very different in the east, where the
recently defeated Sasak aristocracy hung in Limbo.
Here the Balinese had to maintain control from
garrisoned forts and, although the traditional village
government remained intact, the village chief was
reduced to little more than a tax collector for the
local Balinese district head ( punggawa )
The Balinese ruled like feudal kings, assuming control
of the land from the Sasak peasants and reducing them
to the level of serfs. With their power and
land-holdings slashed, the Sasak aristocracy of eastern
Lombok was hostile to the Balinese. The peasants
remained loyal to their former Sasak rulers, and
supported rebellions in 1855, 1871 and 1891.
Geography
Lombok lies 8 degrees south of the equator and
stretches some 80km east to west and about the same
distance north to south. It is dominated by the second
highest mountain in Indonesia, GUNUNG RINJANI, which
soars to 3726m. It has a large caldera with a crater
lake, Segara Anak, 600m below the rim, and a new
volcanic cone which has formed in the center. Rinjani
last erupted in 1994, and evidence of this can be seen
in the fresh lava and yellow sulfur around the inner
cone.
Central Lombok, to the south of Rinjani is similar to
Bali, with rich alluvial plains and fields irrigated
by water flowing from the mountains. In the far south
and east it is drier, with scrubby, barren hills. This
area gets little rain and often has droughts which can
last for months. In recent years, several dams have
been built, so the abundant rain-fall of the wet
season can be retained for irrigation throughout the
year.
Climate
In Lombok's dry season - from June to September - the
heat can be scorching. At night, particularly at
higher elevations, the temperature can drop so much a
sweater and light jacket are necessary. The wet season
extends from October and January the wettest months. |
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Flora & Fauna
The 19th century naturalist Sir Alfred Wallace (1822 -
1913) observe great differences in fauna between Bali
and Lombok - as great as the differences between
Africa and South America. In particular. He postulated
that during the ice ages when sea levels were lower,
animals could have moved by land from what is now
mainland Asia all the way to Bali, but the deep Lombok
strait would always have been a barrier. Thus he drew
a line between Bali and Lombok, which he believed
market the biological division between Asia and
Austaralia.
Plant life, on the other hand, does not display such a
sharp division, but there is a gradual transition from
predominantly Asian rainforest species to mostly
Australian plants like eucalypts and acacias, which
are better suited to long dry periods. This is
associated with the lower rainfall as one moves east
of Java. Environmental differences, including those in
the natural vegetation, are now thought to provide a
better explanation of the distribution of animal
species than Wallace's theory about limits to their
original migrations.
Modern bio-geographers do recognize a distinction
between Asian and Australian fauna, but the boundary
between the regions is regarded as much fuzzier than
Wallace's line. This transitional zone between Asia
and Australia is nevertheless referred to as "WALACEA"
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Population & Language
Lombok has a population of 2.4 million ( 1990 census ),
with the majority living and around the principal
centers of Mataram, Praya and Selong. Almost 90% of
the people are Sasak, about 10% are Balinese, and
there are minority population of Chinese, Javanese and
Arabs.
Most people on Lombok are bilingual, and speak their
own ethnic language ( Sasak ), as well as the national
language, Bahasa Indonesia, which they are taught at
school and use as their formal and official mode of
communication.
Apart from those working in the tourist industry, few
people on Lombok speaks English, and this includes
police and other officials. Nevertheless, English is
becoming more widely spoken on Lombok
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Money Changer
You can change cash and travelers cheques in major
currencies at banks and money changers in Mataram and
the tourist centers Senggigi, the Gilis and Kuta.
Money changers normally offer more attractive exchange
rates than banks, but their rates are 10% to 15% lower
than a tourist service on Bali, so it's worth stocking
up on rupiah if you are arriving from Bali. In remotes
area it is difficult to get change, so always make
sure you will carry a lot of small notes and loose
change.
Suggested Itineraries
You will need at least one week to fully appreciate
Lombok, plus another few days if you plan to climb
Gunung Rinjani. Two weeks is about all you need,
unless you plan to do a lot of trekking, sunbaking and
exploring of traditional village.
Electricity
All parts of Indonesia utilize electricity supply is
220V. There are some areas like Gili air, Gili Meno
and Kuta, electricity supply is limited, erratic or
nonexistent. In these three tourist areas, mid-range
and up market hotels normally have small generators,
but chipper places may have no electricity at all, so
bring candles and a torch (flashlight).
Toilets
Lombok is relatively poor and undeveloped, so toilets
in most restaurants and budget hotels are more likely
to be the squat-style variety, and they won't provide
toilet paper. Toilet paper is available at general
stores throughout Lombok, but if there's a bin next to
the toilet, use it to dispose of the paper so you do
not clog up their system.
Health
Most of the health considerations are the same as for
Bali, except that Malaria is a real risk on Lombok. We
suggest you to consume the Malaria tablets before
visiting Lombok
Medical Services
There are a few decent hospital in Mataram, as well as
less salubrious public hospitals in Praya (Central
Lombok) and Selong (East Lombok). There is also a
medical clinic for tourists in Senggigi. For anything
serious, go to Denpasar or even Singapore or Darwin.
Post & Communications
The main post office in Mataram is the only one with a
post restante service; other post offices will accept
post restante mail, but then redirect it to Mataram.
You can have mail sent to your hotel, but it may take
time. You can send and receive international calls and
faxes from private and telkom wartels (public
telephone offices) in most larger towns, for about the
same cost as in Bali. There is a Home Country Direct
Dial telephone inside the waiting room at the Mataram
airport. The emergency telephone numbers for Lombok
are the same as on Bali. All of Lombok is in the
(0370) telephone area code.
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